Ikväll smäller det! För ett tag sedan publicerade jag en lista av finalister av Art and Olfaction Awards, en av viktigaste utmärkelsen inom doftbranschen. Idag, i Hammer Museum i Los Angeles juryn offentliggjorde vinnarna. Och vem satt i juryn? Bara prominenta fragrance-celebrities: Andy Tauer, Kaya Sorhaindo, Luca Turin, Mandy Aftel, Mark Behnke och Sarah Horowitz-Thran.
Vem vann då?
Inom kategorin ARTISAN:
INCENDO av La Curie (parfymör Lesli Wood Peterson), USA
”A nostalgic masculine modern archetype. Designed to be an escape from our modern world into a residual memory of our primordial souls and archaic trappings. The main stage is smoldering as the silent pine and cedar groves watch from the sidelines. Raw kindling has been cut and dried as a deer fidgets in the distance. A worn leather amulet bag holds small ceremonial offerings to be thrown in the blaze to make wishes and ward off spirits.”
MIYAKO av Auphorie (parfymörer ‘Eugene’ Zhe You Au och ‘Emrys’ Zhe Min Au), Malaysia
”Miyako represents our emotions and passions towards the ancient capital city of the Far East land , where exotic natural extracts are used generously to evoke the past glories of the Far Eastern art of scent. Rare golden osmanthus absolute from Japan becomes the heart of the scent, which is slightly floral, apricot-peach-like fruity, with a unique leather undertone, that makes this scent pop. We also take inspiration from the art of making Japanese incense, and translate that into the base of this creation, featuring warm woodsiness of Mysore sandalwood and Hinoki tree with a touch of dark earthiness of patchouli oil complimented by a sweet touch of Katsura leaf.”
Inom kategorin INDEPENDENT:
BAT av Zoologist Perfumes (parfymör Ellen Covey), Canada
”The journey of Bat starts at the entrance to a cave in the hillside, shrouded by the swirling fog that is created when the warm air of the outside world meets the cold breath of the dark chambers beneath, heavy with scent of deep-reaching tree roots, moist earth, and dripping limestone walls. At dusk the bat wakes and flies on delicate, leathery wings through the stony labyrinth seeking the balmy air outside, where it drinks from a stream, feasts on wild figs, ripe bananas and juicy soft fruits. Back at its roost, it snuggles with its warm companions and falls asleep again, lulled by the clean, sweet scent of musky fur and skin that is not that different from our own.”
NEA av Jul et Mad (parfymör Luca Maffei), Frankrike
”This fragrance was directly inspired from the name of a splendid edifice near the Imperial palace, built by Basil I as the tangible symbol of this era of renewal, of “renaissance”, during the Golden Age of the Byzantium Empire. Unfortunately, there are no remains of this magnificent creation. According to historians, the construction was renowned for its splendor and architectural richness, its five domes being entirely covered with gold, and the marble walls adorned with precious stones and pearls.”
SADAKICHI AWARD för experimentalt arbete med doft:
CENTURY’S BREATH av Cat Jones, Australien
”Century’s Breath creates an olfactory landscape from the future designed by community in commemoration of the Climate Century. The project responds to the site of LeFevre Peninsula, South Australia, known in the language of the traditional custodians, the Kaurna people, as Mudlhannga, the nose place. This series of fleeting monuments to time and place are building blocks for a chemistry that affects us all – our visions for the future. From the sulphuric shroud of mangroves, to the breath of a new species, together we describe the first, the last, the lost and the gained breaths of a century.”
Bat och Nea fick jag testa och känner att jag vet varför just de har vunnit, de är nämligen ganska innovativa och överraskande, även inom megaöverraskande nicheparfymeri. Hoppas att jag kommer att få chansen att testa de andra snart.
Källa: Art and Olfaction Awards’ hemsida.